I was pleasantly surprised at how good Fishtail was. She got an unbelievable deal from Gilt - an exclusive 4 course tasting, wine pairings, and a signed copy of David Burke's cookbook for $200. But to be honest, I was a bit pessimistic about going. I hadn't heard such great reviews about the food at Fishtail. And I was a bit overwhelmed with the whimsical decor and busy dining room at David Burke's flagship restaurant, Townhouse. The food at Townhouse also had strong flavors, so I wasn't sure if that would be too much for a seafood theme. But Fishtail is much different. The dining room wasn't cramped or hectic. The service was also a bit more comfortable yet still very professional. As expected, the decoration was vibrant with bold red walls, fun chandeliers, and interesting fish paintings, but had an element of reservation that seemed elegant. And the food seemed to fit with it all. I found our experience at Fishtail to be very zen. Fishtail definitely impressed me.
The meal opened with champagne - always a good start. It was paired with our amuse bouche, a spicy tuna tartare with creme fraiche and caviar in a jar. The spicy tuna wasn't the mayo heavy stuff we're used to having in Japanese-American restaurants, but was simply mixed with finely minced peppers, which added some heat and acidity. The creme fraiche provided a comforting cooling quality. The caviar was a perfectly rich way to add some saltiness. Unfortunately, I failed to portion each bite out - I can't help myself with caviar. It was a big portion for an amuse bouche but the simple, well-balanced dish with the champagne was a great start to the tasting.
Our next dish was the Angry Lobster Cocktail. We've had the famous Angry Lobster from Townhouse and it was indeed angry. The full portioned Townhouse version was in your face with salt and spiciness. It was also a bit messy to eat with the sauce because we had to use our hands to really get into it. So when we saw this on the menu, we were kind of bracing ourselves for the rage. But when it came out, it was more muted in a good way. It was half a lobster with more accessible meat (even the brains, which she loves). The powerful sauce was replaced by a more complex lemon basil chili oil. I thought the basil really made the dish stand out. The earthy, herbal tone combined with the heat and acidity from the lemon and chili really created a round flavor I've never really had with lobster.
Our entree was a dover sole with pineapple brown butter topped with brunoised vegetables. Aside from the cut of the vegetables, the dish seemed pretty standard for a fish dish but delicious nonetheless. The fish was perfectly cooked - light, flaky meat with some faded brown char on the outside. The highlight was definitely the sweetness from the pineapple and citrus cut in the vegetables. It was a subtle flavor but it really anchored the buttery richness of the sauce and the bitterness of the vegetables. I think it also foreshadowed the big finish at the end.
The dessert was quite a production. We were served a plate of metal mixers with chocolate frosting. Our waiter explained we were supposed to lick them like when 'you were a kid'. As we enjoyed our chocolate with our paired port, our waiter rolled over a cart with our dessert: the Fishtail Can O' Cake. It was a medium-sized chocolate cake still in the tin. The waiter topped it with caramel, rice crisps, and bits of Heath Bar Crunch. He scooped it out on our plates along with ice cream and fresh cream from a canister. He then left the remaining 3/4 of the cake with us along with the cream. The chocolate cake was amazing with the crisp, salty, and gooey toppings, but the whipped cream was the dangerous one. It was thick yet airy and you could easily eat a bowl of it with a spoon; that's coming from a person who doesn't even really like whipped cream! Shocked by the size of our dessert, we offered some of it to the table next to us and were still unable to finish; but luckily, we were able to take it home.
I think I really liked Fishtail because it wasn't your typical fancy seafood restaurant. These restaurants are exemplified by crudos and light sauces. But Fishtail isn't afraid to pair bold flavors with delicate meat. What you get is a flavorful dish that still stays true to the flavors of the fish. David Burke definitely does seafood right. Special thanks to Gilt for offering this deal to her and opening our eyes to Fishtail.
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